Weihnachtszeit in Deutschland, with a day trip to Austria, and on to The City of Lights
Like our trip to Ireland, we booked this trip all on our own, but this was by far the toughest trip to plan due to language barriers, time zones, and the different types of transportation we took. We ended up having an amazing and truly magical time, so the tears (only once on my part), and (2) temper tantrums (both, again, on my part), was all worth it.
I have always wanted to go to the German Christmas markets, so we planned to take the trip the weeks before Christmas. We researched many cities in Germany: Berlin, Frankfurt, Munich, and Cologne. I was set on Cologne but looking at the transportation to Paris, it was not the best option- and there are plenty of options. Travel within Europe is great, there are multiple routes for a bus, train, fast train, airplane, or drive yourself. We also wanted to make sure we got to Paris; it has always been a dream.
Once we were set on the areas and dates, we booked flights. We flew American Airlines Pittsburgh to Philadelphia then to Munich. And for the flight back we flew Paris (CDG) to Philadelphia to Pittsburgh, well this is what was planned… trying to get home was a trip in itself. (Make sure you read the Amsterdam post about the food you get on the flight.)
When we arrived in Munich at 8:50 am, we did not take a nap (unlike when we went to Ireland).
For our lodging, we were hesitant to use Air B&B due to the language barriers, so we opted for hotels (read the Ireland trip for info on the Air B&B’s).
We arrived in Munich and each had a large luggage bag and a backpack. The hotel we booked was the Das Nikolai Hotel in a college/ university area just a few subway stops north of the city center. The hotel had provided clear directions from the airport to the hotel using the subway system, so we figured we would give it a try. After we got off the plane, we fumbled a little trying to get the pass for the train, eventually, someone assisted us from the language barrier. We hopped on the subway, (this is why my husband now watches videos on how to use the transportation ticket systems.), and got off the correct stop, and started walking, this is where the tears started. From being tired, jet-lagged, in another country where no one speaks English with big suitcases, we became a little lost, and no one around spoke English. We stopped and looked at a map on a bus stop since my phone wasn’t updating correctly yet for directions. We eventually found the hotel (only 2 streets away) and checked in. (Turn on the hose for tears now.) We went to check-in, but the hotel didn’t think we were still arriving. It turns out I booked an extra night- for the night prior, by accident and since we didn’t show and they didn’t hear from us, they gave up our rooms. We ended up having to pay anyway, but at least we were able to get our room. The room was great, had an old feel, tall ceilings, yet comfortable. I had to take some time to not feel stupid for messing up and got over being stressed, figuring out my phone, and getting my balance (all of this is thanks to my husband to calm me down and not want to leave). We showered, got our stuff together and this is when I realized I had printed out an outline with walking directions from our subway stop to the hotel, just sitting in my backpack. If I had just taken a moment to think and calm down, I could have saved some tears.
We headed out to our first Christmas Market. We told ourselves if we get lost, we (I) have to make it an adventure and not get upset.
When we researched the Christmas markets, we found that Munich had many through the city, and each had different themes/ activities. I had made a map to make sure we were able to see different parts of the city. The first market hit us, and every market after that continued to add more. Decorations and lights were everywhere. It was almost if they thought they had too many and too many decorations but added double the amount more. Everyone was friendly, warm with smiles, welcoming, and happy.
We walked to the Chinesischer Turm in the English Garden (German), it was truly enchantment and romantic. We had been told to drink Glühwein at all the markets. We had no idea what we were ordering but clearly saw the bar and signs for it. We somehow ordered and were handed our first mug, it was hot and delicious, and everything I needed. We added an extra shot of hard alcohol and thought to ourselves that we were going to end up with a lot of mugs to carry around. It turned out that you would get anywhere from 25c to $1 dollar (all in euro) once you returned the mug, they wash then reuse. We took our Glühwein and walked around the market to different booths set up, entertainment, games, history of the area, and stopped to watch teams get ready for a game of Schmaren (a traditional Bavarian apart almost like curling). Everything is outdoors, so we were dressed warmly, but after some drinks, our jackets opened.
We took the metro and headed to Marienplatz (central square). This was the largest Christmas Market. It takes place in the square with a huge Christmas tree covered in thousands of lights in front of the Rathaus-Glockenspiel (a 2-story clock at the town hall with bells and life-sized figures), hundreds of booths with food, gifts, drinks, and music, and larger booths, like pop up bars that you can actually walk into and sit down.
Every market was like this! We went to a few others and made sure to have plenty of drinks and food, including the currywurst (So good!), foot-long hot dogs, and sausages (don’t forget the mustard).
We made some friends at some of the local bars drinking Jager Tea (very potent) and shots of Underberg (German shot in little bottles). We also stopped at a few bars including Hofbräuhaus, (it was pretty cool since we have been to the one in Pittsburgh as well), but this one was unbelievable. Full of music with dancing and all ages enjoying a drink and having a great time. We made sure to grab coffees to start our days at local shops and even took time to walk the spiral staircase of St. Peters church for a full view of Munich (about 10 euro, but worth the view). We went into a local bar that was actually an Irish bar that was holding an English Christmas Trivia night. We stopped at a few restaurants and made sure to try the Augustiner-Bräu as well.
We made sure to get out of the city as well.
We planned to visit Dachau. When we were leaving, our hotel staff asked why we would want to go there, a very strange comment that I still think about. We took the subway there and then had to walk under the tracks and wait for a bus (that was on a loop of the city), to take us to the location. It was about a 20 min. bus ride and was already a powerful feeling to see the city and we hadn’t even arrived yet for our self-lead walkthrough. This was a very powerful, and emotional trip as we walked through the gate reading “ Arbeit macht frei“. Translated to “Works sets you free”. This gate is not the original, as the original was stolen in 2004 (it is a 225-lb gate!) and then recovered in Bergen in 2016, the original is in a museum. If you have a chance to visit the site, make sure you do.
On our way back to Munich, we decided to get off at a stop up from the city center, we walked off the subway and walked right into the Stachus Christmas Market (the one with the ice-skating rink). We were able to get a drink to hang out and overlook the rink from above- the markets really are everywhere.
On our last full day in Munich, we were planning on taking a trip to Neuschwanstein (you know, the castle that Disney was inspired by). But after some reviews, it turned out we would not be able to have the full experience due to ice and snow. So, we decided to take a day trip to Salzburg, Austria.
We took a train ride (only about 1 hour 45 min. since the train went about 200 MPH) to the city. The train shut its doors as soon as the clocked turned for our time to leave, (Make sure you are on time, there is no one to hold a door open). Since it was on a Sunday, we were a little worried when our German hotel staff asked what we had planned that day, and after we told them, they mentioned that the city shuts down. Luckily, that was not the case.
We got off the train in Salzburg and started walking. There are 2 parts of the city that is divided by the Salzach River, the old city with a medieval feel, and the new city with a 19th century feel. The new part looked like any new city, but the old part was all history. We set off and found a little café that had The Best Goulash soup. We continued our walk and found a few others on-street Christmas Markets (No joke, they are everywhere). We walked by the House of Mozart (the theatre), and also for a photo opt Infront of Mozart’s birthplace. This really gives you a feel of how old the city is.
We looked up the walking directions to the Hohensalzburg Fortress. Well, you first have to take a ride up in the Festungsbahan (glass car) (and you will need to purchase a ticket), then you arrive 653 feet above the city’s old town to the castle that first went under construction in 1077 (later refurbished and opened again in 1892). You are able to walk the entire grounds of the castle, in and out of every room/ hall/ chamber you can find. We took the time to take in the view overlooking the Bavarian alps. We left with a stop in the Birdsong grotto. We headed to grab a bite to eat at one of the bars then continued our walks along with the beautiful lit up bridges and were able to see the Hellbrunn Palace grounds and gardens at night, and ended up enjoying our time in the city center square Christmas Market listening to carolers in front of the cathedral before getting back on the train to Munich. Salzburg truly looked like a fairytale town.
We took the (DB) Bahn to Paris. Also, a high-speed train only took us a little over 5 hours. We had to switch trains only once, it was a little confusing but there were plenty of people assisting (both works and other trustworthy travelers). When we arrived in Paris, the first thing we noticed was how much military was present and how all people in uniform had guns Infront of them. We noticed this throughout the entire city. Overall, I felt safer in Munich than in Paris even with all of the military.
We were told to keep an eye out for pickpockets and did notice homeless around the main tourist attractions, as well many people selling tchotchkes, but we never had any issues.
We took all of the transportation in Paris just as we did in Munich. Paris is split into 20 Arrondissements, sort of like neighborhoods, and some are cheaper than others. We stayed at the Hotel De Jeu De Paume, it was actually on an island in the Seine and in the 4th arrondissement. There are many hotel options in the city, and again the metro is easy enough to get a hang of to be able to get you to any of the locations.
After we checked in, we headed straight to the Eiffel Tower. We got of a stop early and ended up walking around and just seeing a very tall wall around the tower and not actually seeing it. We made our way around the wall, and there it was, HUGE, bright, and beautiful. We had to go through security gates to get under and to it. This is something that we didn’t realize until we were there. You do not have to pay to go through security, but do have to open your jacket, walk through the metal detector, and open your purse. We walked under and took it all in. There weren’t too many other people there at night. We walked to each of the legs, and then left on the other side and viewed the light show from the bridge. We were not able to see the very top (just faint lights) due to the fog. This is a moment I will never forget and wish everyone to be able to experience.
We left and headed to dinner. During our research, we were told that dinner was between 8-12 pm and tip as you feel you need to, but you don’t have to. We found a small family-owned restaurant and sat down to eat. We are lucky this was our first meal and had the friendliest staff. We found out to order and how the menus are set up. You start with a small appetizer, then salad or soup, then move to your main course with sides, then move to dessert with a follow-up drink. It sounds pretty straight forward until you are looking at a menu in French. I ordered a fish that came out whole (cooked), but clearly was having trouble getting the bone out, the owner came over and asked if it was ok if she helped me, she came over and grabbed the bone in one pull out. I was then able to enjoy the fish. We talked with the neighboring tables about our travel and ended up having a drink with the owners at the end.
Another great meal was at Le Procope, the oldest café in Paris. This is an actual restaurant, not just a café. This is located in the 6th arrondissement and opened in 1686. We did have to have a reservation but were able to get seated early. The old building and charming untouched inside were truly out of a book. The food and wine were great (of course I had French Onion Soup) and the staff was friendly. We were able to take a walk around the entire building; it was beautiful and a must-see/ must-eat for dinner.
While we were trying to go to dinner on another night, I became hangry and didn’t think I would be able to make it for the 20 min walk to the planned restaurant. We ended up eating at a very tourist restaurant on the Seine. it wasn’t the best food at all. This is now why we have back up plans for areas of food to make sure this doesn’t happen.
The rest of the food we had on the trip was great- we made sure to get Macaroons (from a few different places), monte fristos, a lot of French wine and champagne, baguettes, croissants, crème brulee, and even some eclairs.
With so much history in France, we made sure to plan some tourist activities.
Since Notre Dame was right around the corner from the hotel, we were able to pass by all times of the day, and beautifully lit up at night with a giant Christmas tree in front of the towers.
We were able to go inside and take in the beautiful artwork and architecture. We did spend about an hour waiting in line thinking we were getting a tour, but it was only to walk up above, make sure to ask specific questions on what you are waiting and paying for in the lines. Again, there were many people around, tourists, people selling items, the homeless, and policy, and Army officials.
We decided to go to the Catacombs as well, we purchased tickets online, this was interesting, to say the least, creepy and yet, very fascinating. (Be ready to duck your head and take walking shoes.)
We walked the Champs-Élysées, and I window shopped.
We made our way to the Arc de Triomphe one night. We arrived by subway and somehow followed the signs to get under the infamous roundabout after we were amazed at the traffic patterns for a while. We weren’t sure how to get back up to the center but took a few extra turns and made it for the view from the center.
Of course, we went to The Louvre Museum. This was also a dream of mine to visit. We spent hours inside, but this was not nearly enough as you could spend days. We got our tickets online before the trip.
We didn’t have to wait in line at all, maybe it was due to the time of year and day/ time we choose, but able to take pics and walk in without waiting. We made our way straight to the Mona Lisa. You are not able to get up close to the Mona Lisa as there is red rope, but most people are kind enough to step to the side after they take their pictures. Since the Louvre is so large, I do recommend creating a plan for walking around and making sure you see all areas that are important to you. Also, there is a food court you can take a break in and sit down, again plan to spend a few hours here.
The Christmas markets not the same as in Germany, but there were a few. The lights in the city were beautiful, and we of course made it to the Eiffel tower a few more times both in the day and at night. We took a few walks and pasted by the Palace of Versailles, walked through the Champ de Mars (we missed the Christmas Market),
walked by the Palais Garnier, Conciergerie, Panthéon, saw the Pont Neuf, and Fontaine Saint- Michel. If you plan to take time and walk the city, you are bound to run into the many statues.
The trip was great, make sure to dress warmer than you think you will need to be and bring your umbrella. The city is beautiful.
(Now for our trip home…)
Our flight ended up being canceled (after hours of being delayed), and kept being pushed, we would not be able to get out until the 23rd, and only home on the 24th, Christmas Eve. We had already gone through security, so trying to navigate in French signs and language to let us back out to the ticket counter was not easy, also the English line for American Airlines 2 days before Christmas was a nice hold time of 2 hours. We were trying to just get back to the eastern part of the US. We somehow got on 2 open seats on an Air France flight to NYC. This is when my final tantrum hit since even the flight to NYC was delayed. I now go into trips, planning on being delayed and getting to the final destination a few hours later than planned.
We landed in NY, somehow booked one of the last rental cars from Hertz due to the holiday, drove to Pittsburgh airport overnight to get our car, then headed home and shared the experience with family.
Recommendations!:
Be prepared to be in another country, different laws, and language. You are a guest to enjoy your time. Be sure to do your homework, go with the flow but have a plan. I would love to visit Germany again for Christmas and also other times of the month, also for Austria and different parts of the country, and visit other cities in France. If you get the changes to go to these magical places, enjoy every moment since it will all feel like a dream.
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